Sunday was of course Mothers Day, and a chance to invite Mum and Dad around for Sunday dinner. The roast was Lamb Leg, so I chose a Burgundy and a Beaujolais together with a Pouilly-Fumé for my white-wine-only mother, and it struck me that all three wines I puled from my “cellar” were bought from Costco – underlining how fantastic their wine range is. The three I actually chose were decent – the 2014 Château de Chenas Fleurie (around £8) is a favourite in our household, as was the 2013 before it. Delicate fruit, slight savoury notes and silky tannins make for fantastic early drinking, and it will be all the better as the weather turns. The 2009 Joseph Drouhin Volnay (£22) has all the makings of a good wine – the vintage where the wine “made itself” and a good producer/négacient – but for some reason there wasn’t much to excite, and I’m struggling to put my finger on what without falling back on they old standby, “lack of complexity”. I’ve got another bottle tucked away, so I’ll give it a second chance. The 2013 Cave Cecile Lebrun Pouilly-Fumé Au Bois D’Ardennes was respectable, though too much fruit and too little minerality for me, though it’s under a tenner and will give most Marlborough Sauvignon Blancs a run for their money.
There are plenty of other stars amongst their range though. The 2010 Chateau Sénéjac is a fantastic left bank cru-bourgeois claret for a mere £12. The 2013 Bastide Miraflors and the 2010 Baron de Ley Rioja Reserva have won critical acclaim, a 93 from Robert Parker and a 95 from Decanter magazine respectfully, though it strikes me both may have got a little over-excited. The former is a Syrah/Grenache blend that isn’t exactly to my taste, but it’s certainly concentrated and powerful, the latter a wonderful Rioja that will only get better with time. What is impressive is the quality/price ratio with both weighing in at under £9! Speaking of value, if you fancy venturing to the US North West for your pinot noir, they have the 2013 Domaine Drouhin Williamette Valley at £17 – the exact same vintage and cuvée is £25 at M&S. If the 2014 Bouchot-Ludot Chardonnay Chablis is as crisp and intense as the 2013 vintage it will be fantastic, and again, under £10, and if you fancy some oak in your chardonnay, there’s the 2013 Domaine Jacques Dury Rully 1er Cru Marissou at around £12.
They do have the occasional miss, I didn’t enjoy their budget Barolo for example, but there are many more hits I haven’t mentioned, and the membership fee has paid for itself a few times over.